Ölüdeniz - Faralya - Fethiye

Days 172 - 174

With bright skies in the morning it is time for me to go. I head towards Kaya Koy - a village sort of on the way to Ölüdeniz that has a ghost town. Unfortunately I am not feeling so well in the morning - light headed and nauseous. I am not too sure what the problem is. I try and fix it by drinking heaps of water and stopping to eat frequently. The steep hills don't help. 

I pass through Kaya Koy without really stopping and roll into Ölüdeniz in the afternoon, feeling better. Before I can jump off the bike in the Main Street I have been convinced to go on a sunset paraglide trip today. It wasn't too hard to convince me.  Ölüdeniz is supposedly a famous place for this - a scene from the last James Bond movie was filmed here. 

By the time we are at the launch pad the sun is sitting low over the water and unfortunately the wind has changed direction. I admire the sunset and get driven back down the hill with my flight being rescheduled for tomorrow morning. 

I sleep in an undercover area right by the beach. This tourist town is very quiet this time of year and apart from a street dog trying to steal my shoe and a pesky mosquito I am undisturbed. 

In the morning I once again head up a very steep hill to an elevation of 1200m above sea level (so glad not to be on my bike). I am strapped into a harness, attached to my pilot and a parachute and off we go, running down a very steep slope. Before I know it my legs are spinning circles in thin air, kind of like a cartoon character running off a cliff, and we are airborn. 

I have a view across the ocean, towards Islands, peninsulas and the lagoon that Ölüdeniz is named after. Paragliding is great. 

We gain a little elevation from the thermals and then I am allowed to steer. I spin around in circles and then the pilot takes over again, guiding us towards the beach. Before we land he does a few tricks and spins us around and around. I love it. This was well worth it, a great little Christmas present to myself. 

I grab some food at the shop and head over to the lagoon to find somewhere to camp. There are a few proper campgrounds over there and the weather is perfect for lazing about on the beach relaxing. 

I try the first campground - they are doing construction and tell me it won't be pleasant. Fair enough. Next campsite - closed for winter. Next campsite - closed for winter. I try two more and I can't find anyone at any of these campsites. 

I hoist my bike over a small chain link fence in front of one of the deserted campgrounds and wheel it to the beach. I figure I can hang out on the beach for the day and set up my tent when it gets dark. 

The rest of the day is spent eating food, drinking copious amounts of tea and coffee, reading my book and updating my blog. The weather is perfect. 

In the afternoon the owner of the guesthouse type place (it only has bungalows - no camping) spots me. I am invited to his place for barbeque and he says I can set up my tent at his place. Great. I continue to faff around and have a little go on his pedal boat in the afternoon. 

That evening I am treated to a wonderful dinner - chicken wings and fresh fish cooked on the barbie with an array of delicious Turkish salads. My host insists I take a bungalow because I will be too cold (!) in my tent. It's easier to agree than to convince him I will be fine with the five Turkish words I know and his non existent English. 

In the morning the hospitality continues with a full Turkish breakfast. I cycle off mid morning under grey skies toward Faralya. I am hoping to find a nice, cheap guesthouse and potentially spend Christmas there. 

Faralya is perched about 300m above sea level. Underneath the village is a large gorge called butterfly valley. It is only accessible by boat or by a very steep pathway from Faralya. I wouldn't mind spending a day there as well. 

I swing my leg over the bike, start pedalling and hear a pop. That would be the top button on my shorts popping open. Yep, even though my cycling has slowed down a bit the last few weeks my cycling appetite hasn't. Who knew it was possible to gain weight cycle touring. 

The road to Faralya switchbacks it's way along the steep coastline. Spectacular cycling but once again, very steep. 

I arrive in the village and it is very quiet. The guesthouse that had been recommended to me was shut for winter. After yesterday I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. 

I find another guesthouse just as it starts pissing down rain. Unfortunately it is about twice as much as I can afford. The owner insists the rooms are very nice. I am sure they are but it still doesn't change my budget. 

As I drink a coffee that the owner has kindly given me I send a quick message to Kathy, my warm showers host in Fethiye, letting her know I am returning today. There is nothing happening in Faralya and certainly no one to spend Christmas with. I also don't want to camp in the rain. Yep, soft. 

As I attempt to summon my willpower to cycle a hilly 30 odd kilometres in the pouring rain a dolmus (mini bus) appears.  Perfect. Seven lira and about 45 minutes later I am dropped off right near Kathy's apartment. Unfortunately Kathy didn't get my message but she kindly let this bedraggled cycle tourist back into her house. What a heart of gold. 

Kathy seems to open her door to many strays, not just me. She is currently fostering six kittens that have taken over her lounge room. She is also hosting another cycle tourist, Ishbel, who has adopted a street dog named Lucy. Needless to say it is a full house and I am very grateful that there is a spare bed for me and wonderful company, not to mention the endless cups of tea. 

19/12 Fethiye - Ölüdeniz: rode 18km ODO 5410km

21/12 Ölüdeniz - Faralya (bus to Fethiye): rode 15km, ODO 5425km