I am up early on Friday morning to get the ferry. I am pretty excited to be finally stepping into Europe. I have been dreaming and looking forward to this for months. When people ask me where I am going I just say 'oh, on my way to Europe' and now the only thing in my way is a 45 minute ferry ride. Customs is a breeze, with a stamp in my passport and a cursory glance inside a couple of my panniers I am in.
I am immediately asked if I want a pension (cheap hotel) which I decline but keep in the back of my thoughts - it's only €10. Before I decide anything I need to change the last of my lira, grab some more euros and figure out my plan. Kos is a pretty small island and there is not a lot going on - it's winter and there are no tourists. I buy a ticket for the ferry to Rhodes the following day. I spend the afternoon in a cafe interneting and wandering around this sleepy town. I succumb to the offer of the cheap guesthouse.
I find myself waiting for the ferry and sunrise in the morning. The ferry arrives and it's the biggest boat I have ever been on. Inbetween reading, snoozing and snacking the four hour ferry ride is over before I know it. I call my couchsurfing host, Sevi and make my way to her places, about 20km from Rhodes city. Rhodes has an old city - built about 600 years ago. It has been inhabited by the Romans and the Ottomans.
Sevi is a Greek woman that has travelled quite a bit through Europe and a little in the Middle East. The afternoon is spent drinking tea and napping. After some of we mums cooking we drive into to town to catch up with some of her friends, drink some beer and listen to some live music.
On Sunday we join the historical preservation society (I think?) for there end of year dinner. A bunch of speeches in Greek and then the part I had been waiting for - cake! Following the cake eating and mulled wine drinking we went on a tour of the old city, looking at a bunch of churches that are normally closed.
We finished off the afternoon by spending it at a taverna, eating Greek mezze, drinking carafes of wine and enjoying some more greek music. Between the cheap wine, delicious food and fine company greece was exceeding my expectations.
I figured it was about time I actually rode my bike somewhere and try to reduce my winter belly. I still can't get the buttons done up on my shorts! I guessed that it will take four or five days to cycle a loop of the island at a cruisy holiday pace. I set off from Sevi's house and enjoy the flat, easy cycling. In the afternoon I find a campsite next to an empty caravan. Conveniently there were some chairs available for me to borrow. Luxury. An afternoon of tea drinking, reading and admiring the view of the castle and the ocean was in order.
Under grey skies I continue in the morning, up and down hills, through small villages, past olive orchards. The scenery is unsurprisingly very similar to Southern Turkey. The people are freindly except I can't help but notice the lack of invitations to join groups of me for çay.
The countryside is dotted with many small chapels, often unlocked, full of religious icons, candles and incense. Along the road there are many roadside shrines, often situated where someone has died in a car crash. Many of the are well looked after, oil burners lit.
Once back at sea level I fight my way into a fierce headwind. I planned on camping at the beach here but it's not very protected and I don't want to deal with the wind all night. I head across the island and camp amongst some olive trees, well camouflaged from the road protected from the wind.
I thought that since I had a head wind yesterday and was pretty much going back the other direction I would have a tail wind today. Nope. Of course not.
I reach Lindos by mid arvo and have a wander around. This is a village famous for it's 'captain's houses' - houses that the captains of the boats used to live in during the 14th, 15th and 16th century. Of course, being winter everything in town is shut.
I did have a nice wander around town and some of the pebble floors were nice. As I leave town the sky looks ominous, it feels like the rain is going to start any minute. It doesn't eventuate and once agin I camp amongst some olive trees.
The rest of the ride to Rhodes is easy, if a little unintersting at times. I pass some massive olive trees, trunks over a metre wide. When cycling into a town, there is a long avenue if gum trees. Strange. Another highlight is reaching my first Lidl, similar to Aldi or BIM, Lidl seems to be the holy grail of cheap food in Europe. Every cycle tourist that has been to Europe tends to go on and on about the greatness of Lidl. Finally I have made it. A try milestone.
I want to catch the ferry to Athens tomorrow night and I could really do with a shower before than. Lucky for me, Sevi is kind enough to take me back for a night.
On Friday I laze around Sevi's house all morning before making my way into town. It is super windy, of course it's a headwind. Sometimes it feels like no matter which direction I cycle I always have a headwind. Sevi and I meet up with her other couch surfer and and Italian lady that lives in Rhodes, Valentina. After a couple of dunk and a bowl of pasta it's time for me to make my way to the boat.
I arrive at the dock and get told that the boat might be cancelled due to high winds but I should wait around until they decide whichight not be until 10pm. Great. At about 8.30pm they finally make a decision and let me know that the boat may or may not leave at 6am the next morning. Sevi lives about 20km from town so I can't go to her place. Thankfully I manage to get hold if Valentina and she kindly arranges for me to stay with her upstairs neighbour.
Valentina lives in a small studio on the old city, her building is over 600 years old. It is such a great little room, old stone walls, wooden ceiling. I love it. I spend the night on her neighbours couch and I am up very early to call the ferry company to find out if the boat is going. Yep, I am off to Athens.
16/1 Bodrum - Kos: rode 3km
17/1 Kos - Rhodes - Damatria: rode 25km
19/1 Damatria - near Kamiros: rode 35km
20/1 near Kamiros - near Kattavi: rode 50km
21/1 near Kattavia - past Lindos: ride 49
22/1 past Lindos - Rhodes - Damatria: rode 69km
23/1 Damatria - Rhodes: rode 27km
24/1 Rhodes - Athens: rode 3km
ODO 5913km
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