Greece - Kos and Rhodes

Days 201 - 209

I am up early on Friday morning to get the ferry. I am pretty excited to be finally stepping into Europe. I have been dreaming and looking forward to this for months. When people ask me where I am going I just say 'oh, on my way to Europe' and now the only thing in my way is a 45 minute ferry ride. Customs is a breeze, with a stamp in my passport and a cursory glance inside a couple of my panniers I am in. 

I am immediately asked if I want a pension (cheap hotel) which I decline but keep in the back of my thoughts - it's only €10. Before I decide anything I need to change the last of my lira, grab some more euros and figure out my plan. Kos is a pretty small island and there is not a lot going on - it's winter and there are no tourists. I buy a ticket for the ferry to Rhodes the following day. I spend the afternoon in a cafe interneting and wandering around this sleepy town. I succumb to the offer of the cheap guesthouse. 

I find myself waiting for the ferry and sunrise in the morning. The ferry arrives and it's the biggest boat I have ever been on. Inbetween reading, snoozing and snacking the four hour ferry ride is over before I know it. I call my couchsurfing host, Sevi and make my way to her places, about 20km from Rhodes city. Rhodes has an old city - built about 600 years ago. It has been inhabited by the Romans and the Ottomans. 

Sevi is a Greek woman that has travelled quite a bit through Europe and a little in the Middle East. The afternoon is spent drinking tea and napping. After some of we mums cooking we drive into to town to catch up with some of her friends, drink some beer and listen to some live music. 

On Sunday we join the historical preservation society (I think?) for there end of year dinner. A bunch of speeches in Greek and then the part I had been waiting for - cake! Following the cake eating and mulled wine drinking we went on a tour of the old city, looking at a bunch of churches that are normally closed. 

We finished off the afternoon by spending it at a taverna, eating Greek mezze, drinking carafes of wine and enjoying some more greek music. Between the cheap wine, delicious food and fine company greece was exceeding my expectations. 

I figured it was about time I actually rode my bike somewhere and try to reduce my winter belly. I still can't get the buttons done up on my shorts!  I guessed that it will take four or five days to cycle a loop of the island at a cruisy holiday pace. I set off from Sevi's house and enjoy the flat, easy cycling. In the afternoon I find a campsite next to an empty caravan. Conveniently there were some chairs available for me to borrow. Luxury. An afternoon of tea drinking, reading and admiring the view of the castle and the ocean was in order. 

Under grey skies I continue in the morning, up and down hills, through small villages, past olive orchards. The scenery is unsurprisingly very similar to Southern Turkey. The people are freindly except I can't help but notice the lack of invitations to join groups of me for çay. 

The countryside is dotted with many small chapels, often unlocked, full of religious icons, candles and incense. Along the road there are many roadside shrines, often situated where someone has died in a car crash. Many of the are well looked after, oil burners lit. 

Once back at sea level I fight my way into a fierce headwind. I planned on camping at the beach here but it's not very protected and I don't want to deal with the wind all night. I head across the island and camp amongst some olive trees, well camouflaged from the road protected from the wind. 

I thought that since I had a head wind yesterday and was pretty much going back the other direction I would have a tail wind today. Nope. Of course not. 

I reach Lindos by mid arvo and have a wander around. This is a village famous for it's 'captain's houses' - houses that the captains of the boats used to live in during the 14th, 15th and 16th century. Of course, being winter everything in town is shut.

 I did have a nice wander around town and some of the pebble floors were nice. As I leave town the sky looks ominous, it feels like the rain is going to start any minute. It doesn't eventuate and once agin I camp amongst some olive trees. 

The rest of the ride to Rhodes is easy, if a little unintersting at times. I pass some massive olive trees, trunks over a metre wide. When cycling into a town, there is a long avenue if gum trees. Strange. Another highlight is reaching my first Lidl, similar to Aldi or BIM, Lidl seems to be the holy grail of cheap food in Europe. Every cycle tourist that has been to Europe tends to go on and on about the greatness of Lidl. Finally I have made it. A try milestone. 

I want to catch the ferry to Athens tomorrow night and I could really do with a shower before than. Lucky for me, Sevi is kind enough to take me back for a night. 

On Friday I laze around Sevi's house all morning before making my way into town. It is super windy, of course it's a headwind. Sometimes it feels like no matter which direction I cycle I always have a headwind. Sevi and I meet up with her other couch surfer and and Italian lady that lives in Rhodes, Valentina. After a couple of dunk and a bowl of pasta it's time for me to make my way to the boat. 

I arrive at the dock and get told that the boat might be cancelled due to high winds but I should wait around until they decide whichight not be until 10pm. Great. At about 8.30pm they finally make a decision and let me know that the boat may or may not leave at 6am the next morning. Sevi lives about 20km from town so I can't go to her place. Thankfully I manage to get hold if Valentina and she kindly arranges for me to stay with her upstairs neighbour. 

Valentina lives in a small studio on the old city, her building is over 600 years old. It is such a great little room, old stone walls, wooden ceiling. I love it. I spend the night on her neighbours couch and I am up very early to call the ferry company to find out if the boat is going. Yep, I am off to Athens. 

16/1 Bodrum - Kos: rode 3km

17/1 Kos - Rhodes - Damatria: rode 25km

19/1 Damatria - near Kamiros: rode 35km

20/1 near Kamiros - near Kattavi: rode 50km

21/1 near Kattavia - past Lindos: ride 49

22/1 past Lindos - Rhodes - Damatria: rode 69km

23/1 Damatria - Rhodes: rode 27km

24/1 Rhodes - Athens: rode 3km

ODO 5913km

Gallipoli and last days in Turkey

Days 191- 200

It's wake in the morning to find it snowing. Only small fluffy snow flakes that melt as soon as they hit the ground. It is forecast to get worse. I am catching a bus to Çanakkale and I do not want a repeat of the last bus trip. 

An afternoon on the bus and a short ferry ride later and I am in Çanakkale. This town is on the south side of the Dardanelle straight. On the other side of the straight is Gallipoli. The ANZACs landed there in 25 April 1915, fighting with the Commonwealth forces against the Ottomans. It is an important site in Australian history. 

It's bloody freezing cold and windy in Çanakkale, but at least it's not snowing. I meet up with my couchsurfing host, Önder and we head to a resturant for dinner. This place had classic Turkish food that wasn't kebab. Awesome. 

The following day I laze around for a while before heading to town to find some internet and figure out the best way to visit Gallipoli. This area is sparsely inhabited, the sites are a little spread out and tours are very expensive. I get some maps, do some research and decide that I can get a ferry and then a dolmus (mini bus) to a village near ANZAC bay and just walk around for the day. I have to say that it would be much easier to visit this place if I had my bicycle with me. 

To make the most of the day I get up early and by 8.15 I am on the north side of the dardanelle straight purchasing bread and fruit for my picnic. I meet a French tourist, Pier, that is also checking out some cemeteries and monuments. We decide to hang out together and before long we are on a dolmus headig towards Cape Helles, where many English, quite a few French, some Indian and a few ANZACs landed. 

The dolmus doesn't take us far and we hitch to the next village for a quick Turkish coffee. From here we are foot. First up is a Turkish statue of a soldier. Next is the first Commonwealth cemetary, Twelve Tree Copse. 

The cemetary is well looked after, near cut grass surrounds the headstones and there are a few trees. We wander around and I find it very difficult to imagine this area as a war zone. 

We walk down to Pink Farm Cemetary, W Beach, V Beach and Helles Memorial. This is a monument that bears the names of over 21 000 Commonwealth servicemen that died on the peninsular. 

We make our way towards the large Turkish Monument, on the way visiting the French Cemetary. According to Pier, very few French people realise that about 10 000 soldiers were lost in Gallopoli. The French grave is large, apparently they prefer to bury their dead together instead of where they died as the Commonwealth did. 

The day is getting late by the time we make it to the Turkish monument, we have missed the last bus to the village where I need to get the ferry and there is very little traffic. Ah well, we will figure something out. From a distance he Turkish Momument is quite impressive bit up close it has a very soviet style to it and feels a little pretentious and over done. I wonder what Ataturk would think of it. Luckily, just as it gets dark we manage to hitch a ride with some local tourists. 

The following day I head over on the ferry again, this time nursing blisters on my toes from all the walking yesterday. I manage to snag a ride with a staff bus to the museum only a few kilometres from ANZAC Bay. Once again it is a beautiful day, clear blue skies but very cold. 

I wander along the road next to ANZAC Bay, visiting Beach Cemetary, Ari Burnu Cemetary before arriving at the ANZAC Commemorative site. 

It is easy to see why the ANZACs were so doomed landing here. There are large, steep hills rising only a few metres from the shore. 

I have to double back along the road to get to the track to take me up to Lone Pine Cemetary. I visit Shrapnel Valley and Shell Green Cemtaries on the way. 

I stop for a while, have a bite to eat and drink some tea while I reflect on the futility of the battles in this area. The Commonwealth forces gained very little ground during the eight months they sept here. There was a large cost to both sides, 36 000 Commonwealth (including ANZAC and Indian's), 10 000 French and at least 86 000 Turkish troops died. When looking at the Comminwealth Cemetaries I can't find anyone that died aged over 37 years. 

I decide that's enough Cemetary visiting to last me a while and head back to Çanakkale. It's Friday night and I head to the pub with Önder and his friends, it's nice to have a couple of beers and shake off the somberness of the last couple of days. 

I catch a bus back to Aydin to hang with Sam and Bec for a couple of days before I head to Greece. On Sunday we go to the local Camel Wrestling competition. Yes, Camel Wrestling. Who knew that there is such a thing! Apparently this happens seasonally in this area only. The gist of it is that camels are bred to be large, the male camels get dolled up with massive saddles and decoration. Then a lady camel that is in heat wanders around teasing the males and makes them mega horny. Two males are put in the ring together and wrestle for domination. I couldn't figure out how to tell which camel is winning or won or what the rules are. Also, when Camels are horny they produce many litres of froth saliva that covers their mouth and face. Gross. 

Thousands of Turkish locals are out in force, barbecuing, picnicking, drinking, singing, dancing and generally having a good time, including the occasional scrap. The three of us somehow get included with a group of men from Kas. They ply us with lamb chops and give up a little raki. I ask one of them what the rules are for the wrestling. He has no idea and is just here for the party. 

The next few days I just hang out in Aydin, doing not much at all, avoiding the rain. Eventually it's time to return to Bodrum and be reunited with my bicycle and go to Greece. Europa is calling.