Fethiye - Bodrum

Day 175 - 179

The sky is clear in the morning and I decide to head off to make the most of the fine weather. It is predicted to stay for the next few days. 

I am slow to leave, as usual when leaving a town and by the time I am on the highway there is a stonking head wind. The cycling isn't the most interesting, a little hilly and lots of traffic. I find a spot to camp amongst some trees and bushes not far from the highway. 

My camping routine is all out of whack and I am slow to get on the road. The riding is fairly easy but a little boring. I am

aiming for a town called Köycegiz. There is a large lake next to the town. 

About 20 kilometres from the town my drivetrain starts playing up. Every time I freewheel the cassette keeps spinning and the chain looks like it might get caught in the spokes. I pretend I am on a fixie for the rest of the way into town. 

I find the bike shop to see if they know what the problem is. They quickly figure out that my freewheel is stuffed and I need a new hub. This involves removing all the spokes, getting a new hub and having my wheel rebuilt. Not something that I know how to do. 

I hand over my beloved bike to the mechanic and try not to look anxious. I hope they know what they are doing because I don't want to have to deal with broken spokes - something I haven't had any issues with yet. 

They seem to know what they are doing and I spend the afternoon hanging out at the bike shop, using their wifi and drinking çay. One of the guys at the bike shop organised somewhere for me to sleep tonight - a member of the bike shop that is an English teacher. 

Saniye meets me at the bike shop and after a quick shower we head out for dinner. Whilst at her house I discover she owns a lion pretending to be a cat. She rescued her from the street earlier in the year. 

Saniye treats me to Pide (Turkish pizza) that had some short of chopped meat and cheese. After dinner we hunt around for desert. I don't know what the name of this dish is but it is excellent. A small metal bowl is packed with thin, short rice noodles (maybe?), a layer of cheese and then more noodles. This is slowly heated up over a gas stove until the noodles are crispy and the cheese stringy. Then a sweet honey syrup is poured over it with a garnish of crushed pistachios. So tasty.

After another delicious Turkish breakfast I head back to the bike shop to pick up stuff that I left there the day before. I manage to talk to my parents and grandma (it is Christmas Eve back home) and luckily I do because after yesterdays delay and this mornings late start there is no way I will be in Bodrum for Christmas. 

I cycle out of town along the lake and then some back streets through fields of citrus trees and small villages. Before too long I am back on the highway. 

It's easy riding and I decide to turn off and take some back roads to Bodrum that the bicycle shop people recommended to me. The first section of it is spectacular riding along the ocean, narrow, winding road, through the trees with light traffic. 

I set up my tent in a field above the road. I have a nice view of the ocean through the trees. I am a little sad I won't be having a Christmas or spend the festive season with anyone. 

I wake up to a pretty nice sunrise from my campsite and head off early. Rain is forecast tomorrow and I want to get as close to Bodrum and possible. The first hour is cycling is easy. Santa even delivered a tail wind.  

The road turns inland and I head up and up and up. More steep roads. People in the villages are busy harvesting olives. Usually one person is up in the tree with a stick, bashing the branches to make the olives fall onto big sheets on the ground. 

I cycle along an undulating road, very rarely flat. I drop back to sea level and I am gifted with another bonus flat 10 kilometres with a tail wind. I eat my Christmas lunch (bread and Nutella) on a little platform jutting over the beach. 

Before too long I am back inland again, steep hills typical of Southern Turkey. By now I am tired and resort to pushing my bike. Yep. Pushing my bike on pavement, it doesn't happen often.  I finally get the downhill run I have been waiting for. Wonderful. 

In the next town I am offered tea and happily accept. I am only about 30 km from Bodrum and it can wait until tomorrow. I cycle a little further out of town and set up camp amongst some trees next to an olive tree orchard. Christmas dinner is my usual vege soup with rice thrown in.

If you had asked me 6 months ago what I wanted to do for Christmas I would have mentioned something about a white Christmas. I didn't plan on spending all day cycling up and down steep hills but that's ok. I had a tail wind occasionally, great views, little traffic and I was well fed, even if the food wasn't fancy. Not a bad Christmas, just not really Christmas at all. 

With tired legs I slowly finish the remaining kilometres to Bodrum. It's a nice ride but alas, that headwind is back. I find the hostel in town, no one is there and it's very dirty. But it's half the price of the other guesthouses and pensions that I looked at. 

I treat myself to fish and beer for lunch. The fish is called hamsi and is an anchovy that is caught in the bosphorous. It is served fried and you are meant to eat the fish whole. I think it's pretty tasty. 

In the early evening I finally meet the owner of the hostel and two other people staying there. Bec (Irish) and Sam (Aussie) are English teachers in Aydin and came to Bodrum for Christmas. We are taken to a Christmas party put on by the mayor of Bodrum for the expat community.  Free food and alcohol. Suits me fine. We head to the bar next to the hostel and by midnight I am done. Off to bed for me. 

22/12 Fethiye - Göcek: rode 33km, ODO 5410km

23/12 Göcek - Koycegiz: rode 37km, ODO 5496km

24/12 Koycegiz - before Akbük: rode 58km, ODO 5554km

25/12 Before Akbük - Mumcalar: rode 69km, ODO 5623km

26/12 Mumcalar - Bodrum: rode 26km, ODO 5650km

Ölüdeniz - Faralya - Fethiye

Days 172 - 174

With bright skies in the morning it is time for me to go. I head towards Kaya Koy - a village sort of on the way to Ölüdeniz that has a ghost town. Unfortunately I am not feeling so well in the morning - light headed and nauseous. I am not too sure what the problem is. I try and fix it by drinking heaps of water and stopping to eat frequently. The steep hills don't help. 

I pass through Kaya Koy without really stopping and roll into Ölüdeniz in the afternoon, feeling better. Before I can jump off the bike in the Main Street I have been convinced to go on a sunset paraglide trip today. It wasn't too hard to convince me.  Ölüdeniz is supposedly a famous place for this - a scene from the last James Bond movie was filmed here. 

By the time we are at the launch pad the sun is sitting low over the water and unfortunately the wind has changed direction. I admire the sunset and get driven back down the hill with my flight being rescheduled for tomorrow morning. 

I sleep in an undercover area right by the beach. This tourist town is very quiet this time of year and apart from a street dog trying to steal my shoe and a pesky mosquito I am undisturbed. 

In the morning I once again head up a very steep hill to an elevation of 1200m above sea level (so glad not to be on my bike). I am strapped into a harness, attached to my pilot and a parachute and off we go, running down a very steep slope. Before I know it my legs are spinning circles in thin air, kind of like a cartoon character running off a cliff, and we are airborn. 

I have a view across the ocean, towards Islands, peninsulas and the lagoon that Ölüdeniz is named after. Paragliding is great. 

We gain a little elevation from the thermals and then I am allowed to steer. I spin around in circles and then the pilot takes over again, guiding us towards the beach. Before we land he does a few tricks and spins us around and around. I love it. This was well worth it, a great little Christmas present to myself. 

I grab some food at the shop and head over to the lagoon to find somewhere to camp. There are a few proper campgrounds over there and the weather is perfect for lazing about on the beach relaxing. 

I try the first campground - they are doing construction and tell me it won't be pleasant. Fair enough. Next campsite - closed for winter. Next campsite - closed for winter. I try two more and I can't find anyone at any of these campsites. 

I hoist my bike over a small chain link fence in front of one of the deserted campgrounds and wheel it to the beach. I figure I can hang out on the beach for the day and set up my tent when it gets dark. 

The rest of the day is spent eating food, drinking copious amounts of tea and coffee, reading my book and updating my blog. The weather is perfect. 

In the afternoon the owner of the guesthouse type place (it only has bungalows - no camping) spots me. I am invited to his place for barbeque and he says I can set up my tent at his place. Great. I continue to faff around and have a little go on his pedal boat in the afternoon. 

That evening I am treated to a wonderful dinner - chicken wings and fresh fish cooked on the barbie with an array of delicious Turkish salads. My host insists I take a bungalow because I will be too cold (!) in my tent. It's easier to agree than to convince him I will be fine with the five Turkish words I know and his non existent English. 

In the morning the hospitality continues with a full Turkish breakfast. I cycle off mid morning under grey skies toward Faralya. I am hoping to find a nice, cheap guesthouse and potentially spend Christmas there. 

Faralya is perched about 300m above sea level. Underneath the village is a large gorge called butterfly valley. It is only accessible by boat or by a very steep pathway from Faralya. I wouldn't mind spending a day there as well. 

I swing my leg over the bike, start pedalling and hear a pop. That would be the top button on my shorts popping open. Yep, even though my cycling has slowed down a bit the last few weeks my cycling appetite hasn't. Who knew it was possible to gain weight cycle touring. 

The road to Faralya switchbacks it's way along the steep coastline. Spectacular cycling but once again, very steep. 

I arrive in the village and it is very quiet. The guesthouse that had been recommended to me was shut for winter. After yesterday I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. 

I find another guesthouse just as it starts pissing down rain. Unfortunately it is about twice as much as I can afford. The owner insists the rooms are very nice. I am sure they are but it still doesn't change my budget. 

As I drink a coffee that the owner has kindly given me I send a quick message to Kathy, my warm showers host in Fethiye, letting her know I am returning today. There is nothing happening in Faralya and certainly no one to spend Christmas with. I also don't want to camp in the rain. Yep, soft. 

As I attempt to summon my willpower to cycle a hilly 30 odd kilometres in the pouring rain a dolmus (mini bus) appears.  Perfect. Seven lira and about 45 minutes later I am dropped off right near Kathy's apartment. Unfortunately Kathy didn't get my message but she kindly let this bedraggled cycle tourist back into her house. What a heart of gold. 

Kathy seems to open her door to many strays, not just me. She is currently fostering six kittens that have taken over her lounge room. She is also hosting another cycle tourist, Ishbel, who has adopted a street dog named Lucy. Needless to say it is a full house and I am very grateful that there is a spare bed for me and wonderful company, not to mention the endless cups of tea. 

19/12 Fethiye - Ölüdeniz: rode 18km ODO 5410km

21/12 Ölüdeniz - Faralya (bus to Fethiye): rode 15km, ODO 5425km

Kas to Fethiye

Days 166 - 170

The house that Mark and Teresa are staying in is on the peninsula, a few kilometres from town. Dotted on the hillside are fancy hotels and even more fancy houses. There is a great view across the ocean to a Greek Island. 

In the morning I laze about on the patio, admiring the view, soaking up some sunshine and eating a lazy breakfast. The day continues in the same manner and apart from a quick trip to town for some food I don't do a lot. In the afternoon Mark and I enjoy a couple of sunset beers. 

The following morning it is time to leave.  It's another perfect winters day - clear blue skies, light breeze and warm enough for shorts and sandals. 

The cycling continues to be spectacular, winding along the edge of the water, steep hills or cliffs on my right. Eventually the road turns inland and thankfully isn't as hilly as I thought it would be. I find spot to camp under a large olive tree in an empty field. 

The following day I make quick time to Fethiye, the cycling is not the most interesting but it's mostly fast and fairly flat. The most intersting thing I pass is a BIM (Turkish equivilant of Aldi) situated underneath a mosque. 

I am little earlier than my warm showers host expects so I spend the afternoon cycling around the harbour. The harbour is full of large gullets, many covered in tarps for the winter. 

My host Kathy is an English woman that has been living in Fethiye for the last 6 years with her two daughters. Last summer Kathy and her older daughter, Kirsty cycled from Fethiye to the UK. We sit and drink tea and trade cycletouring stories. 

At one stage Kathy mentioned that her daughter brings her a cup of tea every morning in bed. I mentioned that I love getting tea delivered in bed - not expecting it of course. 

In the morning at about 7am I am lucky enough to get a cuppa in bed. Lucky me. Amazing! The sun is out and after Turkish breakfast Kathy and I cycle to the market for some veges. 

I am not sure if I have mentioned Turkish breakfast yet. I love them. It usually consists of a range of olives, cheese, honey, butter, eggs, tomato, cucumber, jam, piles of bread and of course endless cups of tea. 

After the markets Kathy, Kirsty and I pack a picnic and head for a ride around the peninsula. There were a few sharp, short hills to make sure we earned our lunch. 

In the evening Ishbel, another cycle tourist showed up. She is planning on cycling around the world but got sidetracked in Turkey when she adopted a street dog. Since then she has been raising money for animal welfare and has found her adopted dog, Lucy a home in the UK. 

The next day I have a lazy day, typing my blog and making plans for where to go next. I want to go south to Ölüdeniz and Faralya. The beaches that way sound nice and there might be some backpackers I can spend Christmas with. 

The next day it is raining. Kathy kindly let's me stay for another day. In the evening Ishbel, Kathy and Bec (her younger daughter) attend an expat trivia night.  It's a little strange. Mostly full of old English people that live in the region. A lady on our team insists that everything in life is a competition and proceeds to cheat during the music section of the quiz. We still don't win. 

14/12 Kas - Gölbent: rode 63km, ODO 5303km

15/12 Gölbent - Fethiye: rode 59km, ODO 5362km

16/12 Fethiye: rode 29km, ODO 5391km