After a slow start (it always seems to be a slow start when leaving a town) I head towards Otranto. It's starts off well enough, tail wind and sunny. Of course this only lasts for about an hour before the rain starts. I hide in a cafe for an hour or so until I decide that it's not easing up. On goes the rain gear. This routine is becoming all too familiar.
Eventually I find a building that's not being used to sleep in. It's a bit grotty but better then setting up my tent in the rain. And I have enough space to hang my wet clothes and pretend that they will dry overnight.
It's sunny in the morning and I join the roadies and head towards the beach. By join I actually mean say ciao to them as they whiz past me. I have a quick look at Otranto and head south along the coastal road.
The road is wonderfull. Around every bend I am struck with yet another amazing view.
I make it to Santa Maria De Leuca, at the very southern tip of the heel. This is where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea. I turn north and continue up the other side of the heel. My campsite tonight is in and abandoned construction site. Roof over my head and three walls? Yes please.
The morning brings a bitterly cold head wind. It must be coming straight off the alps into my face. At one point something hits me in the eye. 'What the hell was that?' Snow. Snow? Yep. Although it is melting when it hits the ground it is still unpleasant to cycle in.
I hide in a cafe and finally continue on. There are many empty houses in this area that only get used for a few months of the year during the tourist season. It's defiantly not tourist season because I havn't been able to find an open supermarket since leaving Lecce. I do however, find a sweet verandah to sleep in. Protected from the snow/rain and wind. And I get to continue my run of not setting up my tent in Italy.
The next day the head wind is stronger but not quite as cold. And it's not snowing. The coastal scenery continues to deliver great views. I try and make up reasons that head winds are beneficial and the only thing I can think of, apart from 'character building', is that you get more time to enjoy the view. Of course this makes headwinds that much more intolerable when you are cycling in areas that are not scenic. In the evening I find another holiday house that is empty and sleep under their patio.
Today I get better weather, lighter wind, the temperature is in double digits and more lovely coastal cycling. The last two days has been full of excuses of reasons to not cycle very far - too cold and snowy, too windy. Today's excuse is that the weather is too nice and I want to enjoy the beach before I turn inland. Any excuse will do. Another empty verandah right by the beach provides another good spot to sleep.
With even better weather I head inland. Only for a few kilometres before I stop to buy some fruit outside someone's house. After the usual 'where are you from?' questions I am invited in for coffee. It turns out that the man selling the fruit is married to an Australian. Before we even have our coffee I am offered a shower. I must look a little disheveled. Coffee turns into lunch and by 3.30 in the afternoon I have been offered a bed in their rental property by the beach. Too good to say no to.
I find it interesting the different reactions that people have to my journey. Natalie, the Australian woman that gave me lunch had many questions and comments. Including 'how did your parents let you do this? 'Iran must be dangerous', 'Tajikistan is very dangerous', 'aren't you cold? I have a spare jacket' and my favourite 'let me pack you some sandwiches and half a cake, you must be hungry'.
7/2 Lecce - before Otranto: rode 34km
8/2 before Otranto - after Santa Maria De Leuca: rode 66km
9/2 after Santa Maria De Leuca - before Gallipoli: rode 34km
10/2 before Gallipoli - past Cesaro: rode 47km
11/2 past Cesaro - past Triglione: rode 53km
12/2 past Triglione - beach near Pulsano: rode 9km
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