Day 163 - 165
During the night I am woken up by a very strong thunderstorm. I am so happy to be inside and with a solid roof over my head. It is still raining when I wake in the morning. By the time I get out of bed and go to breakfast it has almost stopped. A quick discussion and the four of us decide that it's definitely time to leave.
By the time we pack our bags and bikes the sun is trying its best to peek out from behind the clouds. A few photos and hugs goodbye to other guests and saff and we cycle down the street, only to stop after 10 minutes to remove our jackets. The sun has fully emerged from it's hiding place.
A morning of riding up and down hills takes us through villages, past olive and citrus orchards and finally delivers us to the ocean just in time for lunch at the beach. This would be a perfect campsite but alas, time constraints mean we need to be in Kas in three days time so the rest of the crew can bus it to Istanbul. The Belguims have a boat to catch to France and Neil needs to sort out his life maintenance before his wife arrives.
We push on and travel along a very scenic road, right next to the ocean. The sun is out, perfect temperature, no wind, easy cycling and I have wonderful company.
When I was planning this trip back home this is just what I imagined cycle touring would be all about. It's easy to forget the struggle of Eastern and Central Turkey, long freezing nights, constant harrasment from men and loneliness. Or maybe it's the previous challenges that make the highs all the more special. I can't wipe the smile off my face.
Our progress is slow due to constantly stopping to admire the view and take photos. A quick stop in town for dinner supplies and wine and we continue on, hoping to find the perfect beach campsite. It doesn't appear. A carob orchard up the hill a little provides enough flat spots for our tents and just enough dry wood for a small fire. A restaurant by the highway happily let us use their sink and water.
Hadeil and I head down there to do the dishes and are invited to share some kebab. The boys wander down to see what is happening and none of us can refuse a second dinner. The Turkish hospitality continues to deliver.
In the morning the five of us cycle along some more scenic ocean side road. Eventually the road turns inland and we head up some very steep hills. We make a last minute decision to turn off and make our way to Uçagiz and try and get a boat to Kas.
In Uçagiz we manage a drive a hard bargain and stay in a fancy pension for a pretty good price ($15 each including breakfast - there is even hot water!) and arrange a boat tour for the afternoon. Unfortunately there isn't a boat that goes to Kas in the winter. The owner of the pension kindly arranges for the bread truck to take us to Kas the following morning.
The five of us jump onto a small fishing boat and are taken out over a sunken city. Apparently it sank in 200AD due to a large earthquake. From the boat we can see flights of stairs leading straight into the ocean, walls and archways. In the water there are outlines of rooms and buildings.
We hop off the boat at another village, very quiet in the non touristy season, wander past an old castle and back to Uçagiz.
We cook dinner together and indulge in beer and wine. Although Neil and I only met Haldiel, Joachim and Lhasa less than a week ago I feel like we really got to know each other. I wish we could spend more time cycling together. This is also the last time Neil and I will hang out, after Istanbul he heads to Egypt to start the Africa leg of his trip.
My head is a little sore in the morning and I am sure that the others must feel the same way. By 9.30am all our bikes and gear are loaded in the bread truck, boys in the back and girls up the front. The weather is not as bad as predicted but it is nice not to be struggling up the hills. I think the ride back to Kas would have taken all day.
We are dropped off a couple of kilometres from town and roll down the hill. 500 vertical metres for free.
Kas is a touristy town, very close to a Greek Island - Kastelorizo - my first view of Europe. After arranging a bus for the other guys we cycle around the peninsular - more speccy riding.
Whilst at a cafe having lunch a Aussie notices my fully loaded bicycle and comes over for a chat. It turns out he is also a cycle tourist, house sitting in Turkey for the winter with his wife. He offers me a couch for the night. I can not refuse.
After a wander around town (very quiet and lots of shops shut for winter) it's time to say goodbye to the crew. I always find this hard. I had a wonderful week with this group of people and I wonder when I will find someone else to cycle with. I sometimes enjoy being by myself but definitely like to meet up with people and share the journey now and again.
10/12 Olympos - Fineke: rode 41km, ODO 5165km
11/12 Fineke - Uçagiz: rode 46km, ODO 5213km
12/12 Uçagiz - Kas: rode 28km, ODO 5239km
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