Into the Whakan valley

Day 68-69

I have a lazy start in the morning, making rice pudding for brekky and a couple of cups of tea. I finally head off at about 10, heading down to the Pamir river. I rattle my way down some washboard to another checkpoint. After telling the soldiers that I don't have any cigarettes I make my way down the road. 

I find being able to look over a river at Afghanistan a little surreal. Although I am mostly going downhill it is very hard work. The road surface changes from loose sand to large loose rocks and back again frequently. In order to look at the view I have to stop my bike. A few times in the soft sand my bike washes out from under me.  I question my decision making a few times today. Why am I putting myself through this special sort of torture?

As I descend the vegetation changes. For the first time since before arriving in Sary-Tash I see trees! I set up my tent under some trees next to the river. I have only ridden 32km and most of it was downhill but I am exhausted. I hope the road improves or this valley will take me weeks to get through. 

After a warm night (my camp site was only at 3500m) I get up early to try and beat the head wind. It doesn't work. It is already windy at 7am. Feeling slightly nauseous I make my way up hill. Up hill? I thought I was meant to be going down the Whakan valley? Sure enough the road is going up. I struggle on, my stomach not feeling great and also feeling mentally exhausted. 

I check my distance after an hour and feel dejected. The rough road surface is getting the better of me. Then the eggy burps start. I figure it's giardia and get started on some antibiotics. 

Fortunately after a couple of hours of slog the road goes back down. I actually pick up later in the morning, the view is amazing. The road turns and I can see white capped mountains of the Hindu Kush range that separates Afghanistan and Pakistan. I am riding along the side of a large hill, the pamir river way below me. 

During the day I pass a lot of herders, sheparding their sheep, goats, cows and donkeys to lower pastures. At one point I was pushing my bike up a hill and one the herders decided that he would help. I was very thankful. 

After a shorter day than I thought it would be I end up at a homestay in Langar that a few other cyclists have recommended to me.  The Whakan and Pamir rivers meet here to form the Panj river. I have a relaxing afternoon, having wash (so much dust!), reading my book, writing my blog and of course endless cups of tea.  The house what I assume is a traditional Pamiri house, a sunken floor with raised platforms around it and a sunlight in the middle of the ceiling. 

 I am curious to see what the next few days hold, now that I am in the more populated section of the whakan valley. 

5/9 Past Khargush pass - past Khargush: rode 32km, ODO 2026km

6/9 past Khargush - Langar: rode 36km, ODO 2063km