After a coffee and focaccia, I manage to leave town at about 11. It's a lovely ride down to the coast, blue skies, windy downhill run through green fields, quiet roads and then a tail wind along the flat. It doesn't get much better than this.
Until I end up on a busy highway with no alternative. I turn off soon enough into a beachside town. In the evening I eat dinner on the beach before setting up my tent in the pine forest. Eating dinner is a little tricky - my spoon has joined my missing sock and lost towel. I manage not to cut my face off and eat spaghettie with a knife.
After finding a new spoon in town I head west, with a tail wind! The road is busy but eventually I find a secondary road. I turn away from the coast to cross over to the top of the boot.
I have to hide in a cafe for a couple of hours to hide from a creeper that was stalking me for about 10km in the countryside. Seriously, I am so over this harrasment. He must have gotten bored of waiting for me and when I reemerge from my hiding spot I can't see him.
I find a nice spot amongst some olive trees to camp. My tent is covered in frost in the morning.
I continue up hill, crossing over a pass at 700m. The climbing is nice and steady, not too steep. I still stop often to 'admire the view' (not that my legs need resting *cough*). There are rolling hills and snow capped mountains in the background. It is chilly up this high, the raincoat and winter gloves come on for the descent.
Despite the tunnels this was one of the best descents I have had for ages. The road zigzags down the side of the mountain, through a tunnel, across a very high bridge contecting the ridges, switchback and repeat.
Once back at sea level I speed along the flat road with the help of the tail wind. As I am looking for somewhere to camp I cycle past an older man with his pants down that seemed to be enjoying showing everyone what's on offer. I cycle into the next village, find a shop keeper that speaks English, tell him about the flasher and ask if he wants to call the police. 'No, he is probably just bored'. Right. I keep cycling.
I find a caravan park that is closed for winter and sleep in an unlocked caravan. Nice and warm.
The following day I continue south. The cycling is fairly unintersting unfortunately. There is a train line blocking my view of the ocean most of the time. I am in my own little world, listening to a podcast, spinning the pedals and in the distance I spot another cycle tourist. The first one I have met since Turkey! Dazzla is from Cornwall, heading to Istanbul and then back to England. He is also sick of all the rain and cold weather.
As the afternoon wears on the sunshine and blue skies are replaced by very ominous looking clouds. I finally make it to Tropea and call my warm showers host, Salvatore. Only about five km and a steep hill to go. I am starving. As I start cycling up the hill I spot a sign with a picture of chocolate. I get very excited at the prospect of a quick chocolate stop. As I get closer it turns out that it is a picture of bricks. I am very disappointed.
Just as I arrive at Salvatore's house it starts pouring. I am put in front of the fire place, given some tea and a plate of bread, cheese and ham. A perfect welcome.
Dinner is soup and pizza. Very tasty. My home for the next few days is a self contained bungalow in the back of the garden. Salvatore and his wife usually rent it out during the summer.
On Sunday Salvatore takes me for a drive to some scenic sights in the area. We visit and old ruin, buy some locally made cheese and salami from the back of a van and admire some great views. It is drizzly and windy all day. I am glad I am not on the bike or sleeping in my tent.
Despite the best of intentions of leaving today, I don't. The weather is horrible. Very windy and gusty and raining off and on. I do a little work in the garden during the not so rainy periods but most of the day is spent drinking tea and reading my book.
The next day it is the same. Salvatore is very kind and tells me it is ok for me to stay until the weather clears.
18/2 Matera - Nova Siri Scalo: rode 75km
19/2 Nova Siri Scalo - Before Tarsia Nord: rode 78km
20/2 Before Tarsia Nord - Before Cerocea: rode 93km
21/2 Before Cerocea - Caria: rode 87km
ODO: 7085km
Where is the rest of the story?
ReplyDeleteAnd what happened to Elsa?