Gallipoli and last days in Turkey

Days 191- 200

It's wake in the morning to find it snowing. Only small fluffy snow flakes that melt as soon as they hit the ground. It is forecast to get worse. I am catching a bus to Çanakkale and I do not want a repeat of the last bus trip. 

An afternoon on the bus and a short ferry ride later and I am in Çanakkale. This town is on the south side of the Dardanelle straight. On the other side of the straight is Gallipoli. The ANZACs landed there in 25 April 1915, fighting with the Commonwealth forces against the Ottomans. It is an important site in Australian history. 

It's bloody freezing cold and windy in Çanakkale, but at least it's not snowing. I meet up with my couchsurfing host, Önder and we head to a resturant for dinner. This place had classic Turkish food that wasn't kebab. Awesome. 

The following day I laze around for a while before heading to town to find some internet and figure out the best way to visit Gallipoli. This area is sparsely inhabited, the sites are a little spread out and tours are very expensive. I get some maps, do some research and decide that I can get a ferry and then a dolmus (mini bus) to a village near ANZAC bay and just walk around for the day. I have to say that it would be much easier to visit this place if I had my bicycle with me. 

To make the most of the day I get up early and by 8.15 I am on the north side of the dardanelle straight purchasing bread and fruit for my picnic. I meet a French tourist, Pier, that is also checking out some cemeteries and monuments. We decide to hang out together and before long we are on a dolmus headig towards Cape Helles, where many English, quite a few French, some Indian and a few ANZACs landed. 

The dolmus doesn't take us far and we hitch to the next village for a quick Turkish coffee. From here we are foot. First up is a Turkish statue of a soldier. Next is the first Commonwealth cemetary, Twelve Tree Copse. 

The cemetary is well looked after, near cut grass surrounds the headstones and there are a few trees. We wander around and I find it very difficult to imagine this area as a war zone. 

We walk down to Pink Farm Cemetary, W Beach, V Beach and Helles Memorial. This is a monument that bears the names of over 21 000 Commonwealth servicemen that died on the peninsular. 

We make our way towards the large Turkish Monument, on the way visiting the French Cemetary. According to Pier, very few French people realise that about 10 000 soldiers were lost in Gallopoli. The French grave is large, apparently they prefer to bury their dead together instead of where they died as the Commonwealth did. 

The day is getting late by the time we make it to the Turkish monument, we have missed the last bus to the village where I need to get the ferry and there is very little traffic. Ah well, we will figure something out. From a distance he Turkish Momument is quite impressive bit up close it has a very soviet style to it and feels a little pretentious and over done. I wonder what Ataturk would think of it. Luckily, just as it gets dark we manage to hitch a ride with some local tourists. 

The following day I head over on the ferry again, this time nursing blisters on my toes from all the walking yesterday. I manage to snag a ride with a staff bus to the museum only a few kilometres from ANZAC Bay. Once again it is a beautiful day, clear blue skies but very cold. 

I wander along the road next to ANZAC Bay, visiting Beach Cemetary, Ari Burnu Cemetary before arriving at the ANZAC Commemorative site. 

It is easy to see why the ANZACs were so doomed landing here. There are large, steep hills rising only a few metres from the shore. 

I have to double back along the road to get to the track to take me up to Lone Pine Cemetary. I visit Shrapnel Valley and Shell Green Cemtaries on the way. 

I stop for a while, have a bite to eat and drink some tea while I reflect on the futility of the battles in this area. The Commonwealth forces gained very little ground during the eight months they sept here. There was a large cost to both sides, 36 000 Commonwealth (including ANZAC and Indian's), 10 000 French and at least 86 000 Turkish troops died. When looking at the Comminwealth Cemetaries I can't find anyone that died aged over 37 years. 

I decide that's enough Cemetary visiting to last me a while and head back to Çanakkale. It's Friday night and I head to the pub with Önder and his friends, it's nice to have a couple of beers and shake off the somberness of the last couple of days. 

I catch a bus back to Aydin to hang with Sam and Bec for a couple of days before I head to Greece. On Sunday we go to the local Camel Wrestling competition. Yes, Camel Wrestling. Who knew that there is such a thing! Apparently this happens seasonally in this area only. The gist of it is that camels are bred to be large, the male camels get dolled up with massive saddles and decoration. Then a lady camel that is in heat wanders around teasing the males and makes them mega horny. Two males are put in the ring together and wrestle for domination. I couldn't figure out how to tell which camel is winning or won or what the rules are. Also, when Camels are horny they produce many litres of froth saliva that covers their mouth and face. Gross. 

Thousands of Turkish locals are out in force, barbecuing, picnicking, drinking, singing, dancing and generally having a good time, including the occasional scrap. The three of us somehow get included with a group of men from Kas. They ply us with lamb chops and give up a little raki. I ask one of them what the rules are for the wrestling. He has no idea and is just here for the party. 

The next few days I just hang out in Aydin, doing not much at all, avoiding the rain. Eventually it's time to return to Bodrum and be reunited with my bicycle and go to Greece. Europa is calling. 

The loooong bus ride to Istanbul and being a tourist

Days 184 - 190

The bus trip from Aydin to Istanbul is supposed to take 10 hours. At 3 am I wake up and the bus is parked on the side of the highway. It is snowing. I doze on and off and as the day grows brighter it becomes clear we are not going anywhere. We are stuck in a snow storm. 

I sit on the bus, reading my book, listening to podcasts, eating biscuits. By mid day we sill haven't moved anywhere. At some point during the morning I venture out into the (cold and windy and snowing) winter wonderland. I need to pee. Luckily we are parked next to petrol station and I can use the (filthy overflowing) toilet there. It's times like this that a squat toilet makes more sense. 

Finally at 1 pm we are on the move. We drive about 20 metres and stop again. Ok. Too good to be true. A mere half an hour later we move again! To do a U-turn. We are going back. Back to where? No idea. No one speaks enough English to tell me what is happening. I try to be zen and go with the flow but I am a little anxious. I do not want to get dropped off in Aydin (I am sure Bec and Sam would let me back into their house but they are in Bodrum again). Or left in this village in the middle of nowhere on New Year's Eve. 

We end up at a bus terminal in the tiny village. I try and get the person at the counter to tell me what is happening. She speaks a little English. She is less than helpful. I sit in a chair and begin reading my book. Then a crowd of people from my bus want to know what is happening. In a blink of an eye there is yelling, someone hitting a wall and many angry Turkish people. Someone sensible calls the police. I avoid the crowd and continue trying to read my book. 

After a big kerfuffle two police officers arrive and settle the crowd. I still don't really know what the issue is but an hour or two later we pile onto the bus and are told we are still going to Istanbul, just a different way. This turns out to be the loooong way. 

At about 8 pm we pile off the bus and get dinner. The first meal for 24 hours. We hop back on the bus. Soon enough I have been on the bus for 24 hours. The fancy busses in Turkey have (very slow) wifi and I manage to keep Enes, my host in Istanbul updated. 

As it gets closer to midnight I resign myself to the fact that I will be 'Celebrating' the arrival of the new year on a bus. The clock ticks over with very little fanfare. It turns out that I finished off 2014 sitting on a bus, listening to a podcast and playing solitaire on my phone. Not as exciting as I wanted it to be. Winter travelling joys. 

Finally I make it to the Otogar at about 1 am. I hop on a service bus and tell the driver the place that Enes told me to get off. I wander around in the rain, getting directions to the shop where I am meant to meet one of Enes' housemates Mete.  Finally I meet him, grateful that I don't have to figure out how to get to the apartment by myself. 

About 28 hours after leaving Bec and Sam's house I arrive at Enes' apartment. I missed out on a New Years party but at least I am warm and sort of dry and I have a safe place to sleep. I sit around for little while, drinking wine and getting to know Enes and Mete. 

I have a well deserved sleep in and spend the rest of the day being lazy (is this a theme? Winter doesn't seem to bring out the best of me) and making a plan of what I want to see in Istanbul. 

I spend the next few days sight seeing. Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are only a short tram ride away and I spend a couple of days in this historical district. I wander around, trip over and manage to sprain my ankle. It's not too bad but it sure does make going to a squat toilet very painful and awkward. 

The Hagia Sophia was built about 1500 years ago and for about 1000 years was the largest enclosed space in the world. There are large mosaics and paintings on the ceiling, chandeliers hang down low and of course there are hundreds of tourists. The marble on some of the steps has been worn down almost as low as the floor - I can't imagine how many millions of people have stepped here in the past. It is a little overwhelming to think about. 

My visit to the blue mosque the following morning is also shared with hundreds of tourists. After visiting so many deserted beaches and tourist towns on the coast all these tourists are a little overwhelming. I know I am one of them but it doesn't make it any easier. 

The inside of the Blue Mosque is impressive, although I think I have been ruined by the comparatively deserted mosques of Esfahan and Shiraz in Iran. 

Next on the list is the Bassilica Cistern. A large underground water storage area built about 1500 years ago. There are many marble pillars and a couple of statues of Medusa that were stolen from somewhere. There are wooden platforms to walk along and large (gold?) fish swim about in the half metre of water underneath my feet.  I think it was well worth visiting. 

Mete takes me on an afternoon jaunt to the city centre. We cross a bridge that is jam packed with fishermen and famous for balik ekmek (fish sandwich). We wander through the crowds in the shopping district and I spot the largest pile of lamb being cooked for doner that I have ever seen. Quite the highlight!

We end up at Taksim square, famous for being the meeting point when you want to start/ be in a riot in Turkey. All is peaceful when we are there, I can't think of anything to riot about and Mete needs to get home to study for his exams. No riot for us. 

I have seen many advertisements for Russel Crowe's new movie, The Water Diviner, and I figure that whilst I am in Turkey I should see it. I head to a 1.30 screening at a cinema near the grand bazaar. Unfortunately that's the dubbed version so I have to wait until the English screening at 4pm. 

Although I have been to many bazaars the last few months I figure I may as well go to the grand bazaar, it is world heritage listed and I am right next to it with three hours to kill. The ceiling has arches and is painted and looks pretty nice but the shops are full of the same old tourist stuff that I don't want. Actually that's a lie. I covet many pretty scarfs, beautiful bowls, teapots, tea cups, carpets, lanterns, clothes, bags, shoes etc.  It's just that I can't carry it and would prefer to spend my money on other things, like beer. 

I try my best to avoid the touts and wander about. I find an exit and make my way to the famous spice bazaar. It is even worse. I quickly exit, head back to the cinema and read my book while I wait for the movie to start. 

The movie is ok, there are scenes set in places that I visited only a day or two ago which is pretty cool but I am left feeling a little underwhelmed. 

I had hyped Istanbul up in my head and it wasn't quite what I was expecting. Like the movie I saw, I felt a little underwhelmed by Istanbul. Maybe that is my fault though and I didn't make the most of the city.  It was cold, grey and windy when I was there and it turns out I am a big wimp when it comes to winter (who knew!).  The city is so large that I think you really need some local knowledge to find the good spots.  Although the people I was staying with were generous to host me they largely left me to my own devices and I found myself a little lonely and ready to move on from Turkey. I have been in the country for two and a half months!

Avoiding the rain in Bodrum and Aydin

Days 180 - 182

After the free booze last night I feel a little worse for wear in the morning. I look out the window and it is pouring down rain. I go back to bed. I certainly am not cycling anywhere today. 

Eventually I muster up the energy to head to the shops with Bec and Sam for some very late brunch supplies. We cook up a feast of eggs, bread, tea and coffee on my stove up on the verandah in the hostel. Bec and Sam are impressed that I have the means to make my own food. I am just happy I don't have to pay restaurant prices every time I want a hot drink or meal. 

As we recover from our hangovers it continues to pour rain. Since leaving on this trip I have a new appreciation for being undercover when it's pouring rain. 

By the time we finish our breakfast it's time to go to the pub. It is about four in the afternoon. We head to a nearby hotel, hang out at the bar with some Turkish locals, a creepy old English expat, and some very high Danish youngsters visiting their mum. 

With the bar empty except for us we are allowed to choose the music. Sam and I subject the crowd to some Aussie folk music and the bar tender tries to make me feel at home by playing Blue King Brown. I appreciate the effort but I really can't stand that band. The highlight of the evening is eating bangers and mash for dinner. The first pork I have had in months. 

During the afternoon I made a plan for the next few weeks.  My visa is due to expire soon and I still want to visit Istanbul and Gallipoli. The weather is also rubbish and not supposed to improve for a week or so. I can also leave my bike and associated gear at the Hostel in Bodrum. I invite myself to Bec and Sam's house and figure that from there I will bus to Istanbul and then to Gallipoli and back to Bodrum. From Bodrum I can easily get a ferry to Kas , a Greek Island close by. 

The following day Bec, Sam and I hop on a bus together and head to Aydin. I intend on going to Ephesus from their place but the next day it is pouring rain. I laze around the apartment all day. I do manage to cook a delicious beef stew for dinner which we enjoy with mash potatoes and a glass of red wine. 

The next day the rain continues. More lazing about for me. I purchase a bus ticket to Istanbul. It leaves at 10 pm and should arrive in The city at 8.30 the next day - New Year's Eve. My host in Van, Selçuk, kindly asks his old house mate if I can stay with him in Istanbul. With accomodation lined up I say goodbye to Bec and Sam, who were very kind to put up with me for a few days. 

Sorry there aren't many photos in this post but to be honest I didn't actually do much during the days I just wrote about and it pissed down rain most of the time. Yes, I am lazy when it rains. Where is summer?