Olive trees, vineyards and Trulli houses

Days 229 - 234

After a warm sleep indoors and coffee with my hosts in Pulsano it is time to get moving. The sun is shining and I want to see some Trulli houses. 

As I head towards Alberobello the Trulli houses stay to appear. These are buildings with conical, stone roofs from the 14th century. Alberobello has a lot of these houses and the area is UNESCO world heritage listed. 

Tonight I finally have to put up my tent and as usual, camp amongst the olive trees. 

I continue towards Alberobello. The cycling is pleasant, through undulating small roads in the country side. Stone fences, Trulli houses, vineyards, olive trees and the tiny little three wheels trucks. 

I reach Alberobello, take a few photos, wander around for a while and move on. On the way out of town I find a bike route to the next town. Looks good. Lunch is a lazy affair, sitting in the sun, cheese and salami on bread and a beer. The sun is out but only in spirit, it's attempts to keep me warm are very feeble. 

My bike route doesn't last for very long but it was nice. If Southern Italy connected all their bike routes and paths it would be quite useful. My campsite is next an empty Trulli house - this one a little more modern then the heritage listed ones. 

The dew overnight is very heavy. Condensation drips from the centre pole in my tent into the inner. It's a cold and damp night.  The ride into Matera is not so intersting, long straight road, side wind. Probably the least interesting cycling I have done in Italy. 

Once in Matera I discover that I don't have a couchsurfing host for tonight. I have a look around the old city, enjoy a beer at a cafe and shortly before nightfall I head out of town to find a campsite. I end up among some olive trees with a view into the valley below the city. 

I have a sleep in in the morning, lazing in my tent, reading my book and listening to the rain pitter patter on my tent. As I am packing up the farmer sees me and shakes his fist. I say thankyou as I leave. 

Matera is famous for the Sassi - a town built into the rock on the side of a steep hill. In the 70's it was quite slummy and everyone was forced to move out but now it is slowly being fixed up. There are hotels, resturants and locals living there again. Washing hangs outside to dry against the walls. Ben Hur (a big Hollywood movie) is currently being filmed there. 

I spend the day eating pastry and hiding from the rain before I meet up with my couchsurfing host, Jacopo in the afternoon. It's rainy and I spend the afternoon enjoying the comforts of his couch. In the evening we enjoy pizza and beer for dinner.

The following morning brings sunshine. I have a wander around the old city, getting lost amongst the alleyways and winding stairs. In the evening I meet up with Jacopo in a nearby village. It is shrove Tuesday and there is a carnivale on. Teenagers are dressed up in a wide variety of costumes, flooding the streets if what I imagine is a very sleepy village. 

We have dinner at the butchers. You select the meat from the front of the shop and then move to a kitchen/ dining area at the back of the shop. The meat is cooked over a wood fire. 

After dinner we catch the parade - only two floats this year, apparently there is usually three but no one wanted to pay for the third one, another sign of the economic crisis. There is a large party happening in the piazza but the music is not my cup of tea. 

13/2 beach near Pulsano - past Maria Franca: rode 70km

14/2 past Maria Franca - past Noci: rode 37km

15/2 past Noci - Matera

16/5 Matera: rode 5km

ODO 6750km

Tour of Salento/ the 'heel'

Days 223 - 228

After a slow start (it always seems to be a slow start when leaving a town) I head towards Otranto. It's starts off well enough, tail wind and sunny. Of course this only lasts for about an hour before the rain starts. I hide in a cafe for an hour or so until I decide that it's not easing up. On goes the rain gear. This routine is becoming all too familiar. 

Eventually I find a building that's not being used to sleep in. It's a bit grotty but better then setting up my tent in the rain. And I have enough space to hang my wet clothes and pretend that they will dry overnight. 

It's sunny in the morning and I join the roadies and head towards the beach. By join I actually mean say ciao to them as they whiz past me. I have a quick look at Otranto and head south along the coastal road. 

The road is wonderfull. Around every bend I am struck with yet another amazing view. 

I make it to Santa Maria De Leuca, at the very southern tip of the heel. This is where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea. I turn north and continue up the other side of the heel. My campsite tonight is in and abandoned construction site. Roof over my head and three walls? Yes please. 

The morning brings a bitterly cold head wind. It must be coming straight off the alps into my face. At one point something hits me in the eye. 'What the hell was that?' Snow. Snow? Yep.  Although it is melting when it hits the ground it is still unpleasant to cycle in. 

I hide in a cafe and finally continue on. There are many empty houses in this area that only get used for a few months of the year during the tourist season. It's defiantly not tourist season because I havn't been able to find an open supermarket since leaving Lecce. I do however, find a sweet verandah to sleep in. Protected from the snow/rain and wind. And I get to continue my run of not setting up my tent in Italy. 

The next day the head wind is stronger but not quite as cold. And it's not snowing. The coastal scenery continues to deliver great views. I try and make up reasons that head winds are beneficial and the only thing I can think of, apart from 'character building', is that you get more time to enjoy the view.  Of course this makes headwinds that much more intolerable when you are cycling in areas that are not scenic. In the evening I find another holiday house that is empty and sleep under their patio. 

Today I get better weather, lighter wind, the temperature is in double digits and more lovely coastal cycling. The last two days has been full of excuses of reasons to not cycle very far - too cold and snowy, too windy. Today's excuse is that the weather is too nice and I want to enjoy the beach before I turn inland. Any excuse will do. Another empty verandah right by the beach provides another good spot to sleep. 

With even better weather I head inland. Only for a few kilometres before I stop to buy some fruit outside someone's house. After the usual 'where are you from?' questions I am invited in for coffee. It turns out that the man selling the fruit is married to an Australian. Before we even have our coffee I am offered a shower. I must look a little disheveled. Coffee turns into lunch and by 3.30 in the afternoon I have been offered a bed in their rental property by the beach. Too good to say no to. 

I find it interesting the different reactions that people have to my journey. Natalie, the Australian woman that gave me lunch had many questions and comments. Including 'how did your parents let you do this? 'Iran must be dangerous', 'Tajikistan is very dangerous', 'aren't you cold? I have a spare jacket' and my favourite 'let me pack you some sandwiches and half a cake, you must be hungry'.  

7/2 Lecce - before Otranto: rode 34km

8/2 before Otranto - after Santa Maria De Leuca: rode 66km

9/2 after Santa Maria De Leuca - before Gallipoli: rode 34km

10/2 before Gallipoli - past Cesaro: rode 47km

11/2 past Cesaro - past Triglione: rode 53km

12/2 past Triglione - beach near Pulsano: rode 9km